Friday, October 10, 2008
An apology for the long delay
I do not know who may be following this post but even if it is only one person I must apologize for not posting in awhile. Life is busy this time of year and I am running on empty!! Please keep checking in and I will do my best to get back on track. In the meantime do not hesitate to e-mail me if you have questions that I might be able to help you with. Thanks for your support!! Hope your projects are going well --- best -- Kristen
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Figuring yardage for drapes - Part 3
My last post dealt with measuring your windows, translating that into your finished width and length, and then figuring the number of yards required using a solid fabric. Figuring for a print is a step more complicated but is simply another mathematical formula. If you go through the formula a few times I am sure it will begin to make sense to you.When working with a solid fabric the important number you need is the width of the fabric. In working with a print you need to know both the width of the fabric, so you know how many widths are required for the correct fullness, and the vertical repeat, which ultimately will tell you how many yards per width are required.
The process of measuring and figuring your number of widths and the length of your cuts is the same. The additional formula comes into play once you know your finished length and have added your 13" - 15" for hems and tops. At this point, you will be working with the size of the repeat. If it is not listed anywhere, roll out the fabric and measure the repeat. A repeat is clear if you look at a good size piece of the fabric and the print - flowers or grids or whatever the design is - repeats in a vertical fashion. Find the top of the repeat and measure down to where that same spot comes into view again -- this is your repeat. This is an issue I am particular about because it is what separates a real custom look from a "made-it-myself" look. And it is worth the effort to have the project have a custom look.
There will be times when the repeat will give you a much larger cut than you would need if it is a solid and might create some waste. Just be aware that this can happen but it is just part of the equation. There really isn't any way around it. We have not gotten into any fabrication rules yet, but I want you to know that with drapes we work from the hem up - unlike clothing, the hem of a drapery is actually the first thing you do once you have sewn all your widths together. So any excess fabric you will have as a result of a larger cut because of a repeat will be dealt with when it comes time to finish the top of your drape. I wanted to be clear on this so you do not think you will have to cut your length again because of excess from the repeat before you start the sewing process. It will all be taken care of in what is referred to as the "tabling process".
I will use my original example that was in my 2nd post :
My example is for a window that is 60" wide and I want to take the drapery out 6" on each side. This gives me a rod width of 72". My frame to floor measurement is 86" and I have 10" above my window frame. I will put my drape 5" above the frame. Since I want these to draw I will not add a break or a puddle.
To figure the finished length: 86" + 5" less 1/4" off the floor = 90 3/4" finished length.
So my finished measurement for this pair of drapes is:
(Please refer to the last post for how we determined the number of widths)
To figure the CUT length for a repeat:
Our finished length for this pair of drapes is 90 3/4"
To the finished length, we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4"
This is where the next formula comes into play. Instead of multiplying this number by our number of widths we first have to divide it by the size of the repeat. We need to know how many repeats are required for this cut. I will figure it with 2 different numbers so it will be clear to you. Let's say this is a floral print and the repeat is 27". You will take the cut length of 103 3/4" and divide it by the size of the repeat, which is 27". 103 3/4" divided by 27" = 3.8425..... Just as we did with the number of widths, we are going to round up to the next whole number, which is 4. Now we take our repeat size again -- 27" -- and multiply that by the number of repeats -- 4.
SO -- 4 repeats X 27" per repeat = 108". This is the size each cut will need to be. This will allow you to sew your widths together and have the repeats match on the selvage edges. (There are great tricks to creating a perfect match which I will go into when I start my lessons). Now you are going to take your actual cut length - 108" -- and multiply that by the number of widths -- 4 -- then divide by 36" (a yard) to get your total yardage required. 108" X 4 = 432" divided by 36" = 12 yards total. Lets use the same formula with a 22 3/4" repeat so you can see what I mean by some waste.
Our cut length is 103 3/4" which we will divide by 22 3/4" (our second repeat) = 4.5604.....
We will round that number up to 5. ( I feel I need to make a notation here: even if the fraction after the whole number is quite small, say it is 4.156 - STILL round UP. The reason for this is because the fraction is part of the cut length and you will cut yourself short if you round down) . Now we know we will need 5 repeats for each cut for this pair of drapes. 5 (repeats) X 22 3/4" = 113 3/4". Take that 113 3/4" and multiply it by the 4 widths we need :
4 X 113 3/4" = 455" divided by 36" (a yard) = 12.63888. You can round this up to 12 3/4 yards or 13 yards to get the correct yardage. This cut length is 10" more per cut than we actually need BUT this is the only way to allow for the match and assure that the repeat lines up in all the widths of your drape. And if you have a few pairs of drapes you want to make sure they are all cut with the same repeat lines so as you look from panel to panel the repeat is consistent throughout. This is TRULY custom!!
Our finished length for this pair of drapes is 90 3/4"
To the finished length, we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4"
This is where the next formula comes into play. Instead of multiplying this number by our number of widths we first have to divide it by the size of the repeat. We need to know how many repeats are required for this cut. I will figure it with 2 different numbers so it will be clear to you. Let's say this is a floral print and the repeat is 27". You will take the cut length of 103 3/4" and divide it by the size of the repeat, which is 27". 103 3/4" divided by 27" = 3.8425..... Just as we did with the number of widths, we are going to round up to the next whole number, which is 4. Now we take our repeat size again -- 27" -- and multiply that by the number of repeats -- 4.
SO -- 4 repeats X 27" per repeat = 108". This is the size each cut will need to be. This will allow you to sew your widths together and have the repeats match on the selvage edges. (There are great tricks to creating a perfect match which I will go into when I start my lessons). Now you are going to take your actual cut length - 108" -- and multiply that by the number of widths -- 4 -- then divide by 36" (a yard) to get your total yardage required. 108" X 4 = 432" divided by 36" = 12 yards total. Lets use the same formula with a 22 3/4" repeat so you can see what I mean by some waste.
Our cut length is 103 3/4" which we will divide by 22 3/4" (our second repeat) = 4.5604.....
We will round that number up to 5. ( I feel I need to make a notation here: even if the fraction after the whole number is quite small, say it is 4.156 - STILL round UP. The reason for this is because the fraction is part of the cut length and you will cut yourself short if you round down) . Now we know we will need 5 repeats for each cut for this pair of drapes. 5 (repeats) X 22 3/4" = 113 3/4". Take that 113 3/4" and multiply it by the 4 widths we need :
4 X 113 3/4" = 455" divided by 36" (a yard) = 12.63888. You can round this up to 12 3/4 yards or 13 yards to get the correct yardage. This cut length is 10" more per cut than we actually need BUT this is the only way to allow for the match and assure that the repeat lines up in all the widths of your drape. And if you have a few pairs of drapes you want to make sure they are all cut with the same repeat lines so as you look from panel to panel the repeat is consistent throughout. This is TRULY custom!!
My next posting will be about hardware and side panels. Then I hope to begin the actual fabrication lessons. I am working on the best ways to get the lessons across as clear and concise as possible. In the meantime I hope the information to this point has been helpful and getting you started with your drapery projects. DO not hesitate to contact me with any questions or concerns. Good luck! Kristen
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Measuring / Figuring yardage for drapes - Part 2
Measuring correctly for your drapery project is very important. When I do a measure I take many measurements and then translate those into my finished width and finished length. The initial measuring is the simple part but translating those numbers into what the finished product should measure is a bit tricky. When done in steps it will make perfect sense to you. As you can see I have included the measuring chart I promised you in my first posting. If you cannot access it properly please e-mail me and I will send you the file so you can print it out.
Since I told you we were starting with drapes I will go through the proper way to measure the outside of your windows. Inside measurements are important when we start discussing roman shades or different types of shading systems - like wood blinds or pleated shades -- what we refer to in the industry as "hard goods". But for our first project we will deal with the outside measurements.
Make sure you use a good rigid tape measure. We seamstresses / seamsters are used to having a soft-tape for use in making clothing or quilts. But they are not helpful in this process. You want a good tape measure that can hook around the frame of your window so you can get an exact measurement. They are certainly not expensive tools and you will need it throughout the sewing process. You can find one at your local hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot store. I prefer a tape that is 3/4" to 1" wide and a strong steel. Some are softer and do not stand straight as you open them. Find a good quality tape measure - it will last you a long time and become a very important tool.
I always start with the width first and then the length. It is standard to the industry that width is listed first and length is second. I notate this because if you do decide to measure and order hard goods and you list your sizes incorrectly (and the person placing your order does not ask enough questions!) you will get a shade where the width is actually the length and the length is the width -- I have known this to happen!!
Measure from the outside frame to the outside frame width first - it is simple to hook the end of your tape around the frame to the left and pull out the tape and notate the measurement on the right. Take notations of the wall width beyond the frames on the right and left of the window. Are you close to a corner? If so, measure that space. Are there 2 windows close to each other? Measure the wall space between them. Is there a fireplace between the windows? Measure the space up to the fireplace. If there is a lot of wall space beyond the frames it is not necessary to measure it - I just note that there is plenty of space for stacking. All this is necessary when it comes time to translate these numbers into your finished width. This information will help to determine the proper proportion your drapery will need to fit with the size of your windows.
There are a few measurements you will need for the length: hook your tape to the top of the frame and take the length from the top of the frame to the sill - or if there is no sill, to the bottom of the opening. Leaving the tape hooked to the top of the frame, take the length from the top of the frame to the floor. Now measure from the top of the frame to the ceiling or crown moulding. This is an important measurement because it will help determine where you mount your hardware and what size / diameter hardware will work for that space. If you read my first blog you will know that I do not believe in mounting hardware on the window frame so this is a vital number to have!
You are now able to figure your finished width and come close to a finished length. The reason I say "close to" a finished length is because the actual finished length will be determined once you have chosen your hardware. But the difference is minimal and there will be enough information from your initial measuring that you can figure your drapery yardage and get the project started.
When figuring the width of stationary side panels the most I take the drape off the frame and onto the wall is about 6" on either side. People tend to assume that a drapery creates a much larger stack than they actually do. I also find that people are concerned about the drapery coming into the window and taking up too much light or view. But realistically you have to have the drapery cover the entire width of the frames on each side and come onto the glass a couple of inches or it will leave you with an odd look. I would say nine times out of ten the side panels I make require 1 1/2 widths per side and this gives you enough fullness for most windows -- up to about a 7' rod width -- and also gives you enough fullness to play with once you hang the drapery. You want the panels to "stack" when they are hung. What this means is that if you decide that you want them to take up 12" to 16" you do not actually pleat them to measure12" - 16". You want them pleated to measure about 2X that number so when you hang them, you push them to the side so they look really full and appear to be a drapery that actually opens and closes. This is the proper look.
For the length I will figure that they will be hung to the floor. I know there are situations where they may be short but I am not a fan of short drapes (unless they are a cafe curtain) and I will assume you are dealing with your living room, dining room or family room and should take the drapes to the floor - it is a much more finished look. Once you have taken your measurements you need to decide where you want your rod mounted and add that measurement above the window to the length from the top of the frame to the floor. You also need to decide how you want the panels to end at the floor. This is definitely a personal choice and it is difficult for me to say that one thing is better than another. It is a matter of personal taste and what will work for you in your life. Many designers I work with like the panels about 1/4" off the floor, many like what we call a slight "break" - which means the drapery is about 1/2" on the floor. Some ask for more of a break - perhaps 1" - 2" . Some want what is called a "puddle" - which is anywhere from 3" to 12". This is NOT a standard look these days but certainly proper for some situations. This is where your design books or file of magazine pictures will come in to play. You have to choose which works for you. The one thing I will say is if you decide you want the drapery to open and close you probably will not want them to break - they will be constantly dragging on the floor and will get dirty and dusty and never fall properly.
The formula for figuring drapes is the same whether you are doing simple stationary side panels or drapes that will draw open and closed. It is all easy math and I will write out the formula for you. Please make sure you are using a calculator.- another very important tool that you will need throughout the process. I do this everyday of my life and have learned the hard way not to trust the quick figuring in my head. It is too easy to make a mistake and when you are figuring the number of yards of fabric required, that can be a costly mistake.
We will start with a standard pinch-pleated drapery. There are many pleat options that we will go into in later blogs but they should all start with the same fullness. The fullness for a pinch-pleated drape is 2.5X. This fullness will give you the proper amount of fabric in your pleat which is what makes the drapery look full and fall into nice folds from the top of the pleat to the floor. If you have less fullness the pleats tend to look skimpy and the fold will not hold it's shape to the floor - the fabric will start to flatten out as it gets closer to the bottom.
Another important issue is to purchase drapery fabric and not a clothing, quilting or upholstery weight fabric. The right weight of fabric makes a very big difference in the final look of your drapery. You can work the formula regardless of whether you have chosen your fabric or not. However, the width of the fabric and whether it is a solid or a print may change the amount required. I will start with the formula for figuring a solid fabric - and then we can discuss working with a print which requires another layer of math because you are now dealing with a fabric repeat.
(In order not to confuse anyone - some of you will already understand this but I want to be as clear as I can be so there will be no question about what I mean - I want to explain my use of the term "width" This is a standard industry term and it simply means a cut of fabric. I will use the term width in place of cut and I want you to be clear about what I am saying. Since drapes require fullness you will sew cuts of your fabric together to create the finished width you want, and that is why I say 1 1/2 widths of fabric which simply means cuts.)
I am going to figure my example as if we are making a pair of pinch pleated drapes that are going to open and close. This is a better way to learn the figuring process. My example is for a window that is 60" wide and I want to take the drapery out 6" on each side. This gives me a rod width of 72". My frame to floor measurement is 86" and I have 10" above my window frame. I will put my drape 5" above the frame. Since I want these to draw I will not add a break or a puddle.
To figure the finished length: 86" + 5" less 1/4" off the floor = 90 3/4" finished length.
So my finished measurement for this pair of drapes is:
To figure how many widths of fabric are required, this is the formula:
To figure how many cuts of fabric you will need:
Now that we know how many widths of fabric we need, we will figure our CUT length. This is so important because many times I have had people figure their fabric based on the finished length and then have nothing left to make their hems and tops with !!
We figured our finished length to be 90 3/4".
To this number we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4" for each width of fabric.
(I will go into the details of the hems and tops when I begin my lessons so please be patient and trust that adding the 13" to your finished length is safe -- and know that I actually add 15" to mine)
Since the 103 3/4" is close to 3 yards you can round up to 3 yards. If you round up to 3 yards:
Multiply 4 widths X 3 yard cuts and you get a yardage requirement of 12 yards.
If you prefer you can multiply 103 3/4" X 4 = 415" / divide the 415" by 36" (a yard) = 11.527777.
So you can see why we round up when the number is so close to 12 yards.
I will end this "part one" blog at this point to give you chance to process it and make sure you understand it. I appreciate any comments you have, especially if you are confused and need some clarification for any of this information. More detail will follow regarding figuring a print and I will also get back to talking about side panels. Remember - you can e-mail me with any questions and I will do my best to answer quickly and clearly. Good luck! I will be back soon. Kristen
Since I told you we were starting with drapes I will go through the proper way to measure the outside of your windows. Inside measurements are important when we start discussing roman shades or different types of shading systems - like wood blinds or pleated shades -- what we refer to in the industry as "hard goods". But for our first project we will deal with the outside measurements.
Make sure you use a good rigid tape measure. We seamstresses / seamsters are used to having a soft-tape for use in making clothing or quilts. But they are not helpful in this process. You want a good tape measure that can hook around the frame of your window so you can get an exact measurement. They are certainly not expensive tools and you will need it throughout the sewing process. You can find one at your local hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot store. I prefer a tape that is 3/4" to 1" wide and a strong steel. Some are softer and do not stand straight as you open them. Find a good quality tape measure - it will last you a long time and become a very important tool.
I always start with the width first and then the length. It is standard to the industry that width is listed first and length is second. I notate this because if you do decide to measure and order hard goods and you list your sizes incorrectly (and the person placing your order does not ask enough questions!) you will get a shade where the width is actually the length and the length is the width -- I have known this to happen!!
Measure from the outside frame to the outside frame width first - it is simple to hook the end of your tape around the frame to the left and pull out the tape and notate the measurement on the right. Take notations of the wall width beyond the frames on the right and left of the window. Are you close to a corner? If so, measure that space. Are there 2 windows close to each other? Measure the wall space between them. Is there a fireplace between the windows? Measure the space up to the fireplace. If there is a lot of wall space beyond the frames it is not necessary to measure it - I just note that there is plenty of space for stacking. All this is necessary when it comes time to translate these numbers into your finished width. This information will help to determine the proper proportion your drapery will need to fit with the size of your windows.
There are a few measurements you will need for the length: hook your tape to the top of the frame and take the length from the top of the frame to the sill - or if there is no sill, to the bottom of the opening. Leaving the tape hooked to the top of the frame, take the length from the top of the frame to the floor. Now measure from the top of the frame to the ceiling or crown moulding. This is an important measurement because it will help determine where you mount your hardware and what size / diameter hardware will work for that space. If you read my first blog you will know that I do not believe in mounting hardware on the window frame so this is a vital number to have!
You are now able to figure your finished width and come close to a finished length. The reason I say "close to" a finished length is because the actual finished length will be determined once you have chosen your hardware. But the difference is minimal and there will be enough information from your initial measuring that you can figure your drapery yardage and get the project started.
When figuring the width of stationary side panels the most I take the drape off the frame and onto the wall is about 6" on either side. People tend to assume that a drapery creates a much larger stack than they actually do. I also find that people are concerned about the drapery coming into the window and taking up too much light or view. But realistically you have to have the drapery cover the entire width of the frames on each side and come onto the glass a couple of inches or it will leave you with an odd look. I would say nine times out of ten the side panels I make require 1 1/2 widths per side and this gives you enough fullness for most windows -- up to about a 7' rod width -- and also gives you enough fullness to play with once you hang the drapery. You want the panels to "stack" when they are hung. What this means is that if you decide that you want them to take up 12" to 16" you do not actually pleat them to measure12" - 16". You want them pleated to measure about 2X that number so when you hang them, you push them to the side so they look really full and appear to be a drapery that actually opens and closes. This is the proper look.
For the length I will figure that they will be hung to the floor. I know there are situations where they may be short but I am not a fan of short drapes (unless they are a cafe curtain) and I will assume you are dealing with your living room, dining room or family room and should take the drapes to the floor - it is a much more finished look. Once you have taken your measurements you need to decide where you want your rod mounted and add that measurement above the window to the length from the top of the frame to the floor. You also need to decide how you want the panels to end at the floor. This is definitely a personal choice and it is difficult for me to say that one thing is better than another. It is a matter of personal taste and what will work for you in your life. Many designers I work with like the panels about 1/4" off the floor, many like what we call a slight "break" - which means the drapery is about 1/2" on the floor. Some ask for more of a break - perhaps 1" - 2" . Some want what is called a "puddle" - which is anywhere from 3" to 12". This is NOT a standard look these days but certainly proper for some situations. This is where your design books or file of magazine pictures will come in to play. You have to choose which works for you. The one thing I will say is if you decide you want the drapery to open and close you probably will not want them to break - they will be constantly dragging on the floor and will get dirty and dusty and never fall properly.
The formula for figuring drapes is the same whether you are doing simple stationary side panels or drapes that will draw open and closed. It is all easy math and I will write out the formula for you. Please make sure you are using a calculator.- another very important tool that you will need throughout the process. I do this everyday of my life and have learned the hard way not to trust the quick figuring in my head. It is too easy to make a mistake and when you are figuring the number of yards of fabric required, that can be a costly mistake.
We will start with a standard pinch-pleated drapery. There are many pleat options that we will go into in later blogs but they should all start with the same fullness. The fullness for a pinch-pleated drape is 2.5X. This fullness will give you the proper amount of fabric in your pleat which is what makes the drapery look full and fall into nice folds from the top of the pleat to the floor. If you have less fullness the pleats tend to look skimpy and the fold will not hold it's shape to the floor - the fabric will start to flatten out as it gets closer to the bottom.
Another important issue is to purchase drapery fabric and not a clothing, quilting or upholstery weight fabric. The right weight of fabric makes a very big difference in the final look of your drapery. You can work the formula regardless of whether you have chosen your fabric or not. However, the width of the fabric and whether it is a solid or a print may change the amount required. I will start with the formula for figuring a solid fabric - and then we can discuss working with a print which requires another layer of math because you are now dealing with a fabric repeat.
(In order not to confuse anyone - some of you will already understand this but I want to be as clear as I can be so there will be no question about what I mean - I want to explain my use of the term "width" This is a standard industry term and it simply means a cut of fabric. I will use the term width in place of cut and I want you to be clear about what I am saying. Since drapes require fullness you will sew cuts of your fabric together to create the finished width you want, and that is why I say 1 1/2 widths of fabric which simply means cuts.)
I am going to figure my example as if we are making a pair of pinch pleated drapes that are going to open and close. This is a better way to learn the figuring process. My example is for a window that is 60" wide and I want to take the drapery out 6" on each side. This gives me a rod width of 72". My frame to floor measurement is 86" and I have 10" above my window frame. I will put my drape 5" above the frame. Since I want these to draw I will not add a break or a puddle.
To figure the finished length: 86" + 5" less 1/4" off the floor = 90 3/4" finished length.
So my finished measurement for this pair of drapes is:
72" wide X 90 3/4" long
To figure how many widths of fabric are required, this is the formula:
72" rod width X 2.5 fullness = 180".
Most decorative home fabrics are 54" wide so I will use that width. (Again, you can make the proper adjustments to the formula once you have chosen your fabric).To figure how many cuts of fabric you will need:
Divide the 2.5 fullness = 180" by the width of your fabric - 54".
180" divided by 54" = 3.333333.
Well of course you are not going to use 3.3333 widths so you round it up to the next whole number which is 4. So to get the correct fullness for this drape you will need a total of 4 cuts of 54" wide fabric. Since it is a pair of drapes, you will need 2 widths per side.180" divided by 54" = 3.333333.
Now that we know how many widths of fabric we need, we will figure our CUT length. This is so important because many times I have had people figure their fabric based on the finished length and then have nothing left to make their hems and tops with !!
We figured our finished length to be 90 3/4".
To this number we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4" for each width of fabric.
(I will go into the details of the hems and tops when I begin my lessons so please be patient and trust that adding the 13" to your finished length is safe -- and know that I actually add 15" to mine)
Since the 103 3/4" is close to 3 yards you can round up to 3 yards. If you round up to 3 yards:
Multiply 4 widths X 3 yard cuts and you get a yardage requirement of 12 yards.
If you prefer you can multiply 103 3/4" X 4 = 415" / divide the 415" by 36" (a yard) = 11.527777.
So you can see why we round up when the number is so close to 12 yards.
I will end this "part one" blog at this point to give you chance to process it and make sure you understand it. I appreciate any comments you have, especially if you are confused and need some clarification for any of this information. More detail will follow regarding figuring a print and I will also get back to talking about side panels. Remember - you can e-mail me with any questions and I will do my best to answer quickly and clearly. Good luck! I will be back soon. Kristen
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Making custom draperies for your home - Part 1
For those with good sewing skills - and I know there are many of you out there! - making custom draperies for your own home can be a very rewarding project. I have a home-based drapery workroom and have been making custom draperies for my own clients and interior designer's clients for over 25 years. I will not be one to try to sell to you that this is an easy project. Like many people, I enjoy watching the Home Design cable programs that show projects you can complete quickly. However, that is NOT what you will learn here! I have worked hard to create and perfect techniques that make my work a quality product. I have learned through the years that when people are purchasing a custom made product they expect perfection - and they should because custom draperies - and I include all products here from valances and shades to bedding - can be VERY costly.
If you have worked hard to hone your sewing skills and have always wanted to learn how to make draperies and other custom fabric treatments for yourself, I can teach you from this site. I will start with making drapes because these techniques are used in other products such as roman and balloon shades and many styles of valances. So if you can learn the drapery technique you will be ready to move on to other projects.
There are many types of styles to choose from. You have to determine what will work best for you and the windows you are dressing. I suggest that you keep a file of magazine photos that catch your eye as you plan your project. It is also helpful to keep this file with you when you begin your fabric search. I will not spend time discussing the art of interior design on this site because it is too much information to add to the mix! What I suggest is finding books either on-line through Amazon, or at your local book store that talk about the techniques of interior designing for windows. It is not difficult but there are things about your window style, room size and life style that will help determine for you the correct type of treatment for a particular room. There is a lot of good advice in design books so I highly recommend purchasing some and doing some research before starting your project.
In my first few blogs I will discuss what you need to get started. In future blogs I will begin the lessons.
One of the most important aspects of a custom drape is the proper fullness. This is determined once you have correctly measured your windows and have the finished width and length your drapery will need to be. I go into many homes where drapery hardware has been mounted directly on the window frame. That is NOT the proper place for it. It is very seldom (if ever!) that I have installed hardware on a window frame. I work in homes that have anywhere from 8 foot ceilings to 20 foot ceilings and regardless of the ceiling height, or how tall the windows may be, a drapery hung on the window frame -- with empty wall space between the top of the frame and the ceiling -- will "squat" the room and make the room feel small. Taking the rods up - and they do not have to go all the way to the ceiling - will add a feeling of height to any space. If you are unsure of where to place the rod, the safest thing to do is to split in half the space that is above the window frame and make that your rod placement. For example, you have 8 foot ceilings. The measurement from the top of the frame to the floor is 86". The wall space from the top of the frame to the ceiling is 10" (or perhaps you have crown moulding -- either way the formula is the same). You split that 10" in half and determine that the top of your rod will be 5" down from the ceiling or the crown moulding. This is also where your file comes in handy. Look at the pictures you have chosen and see where the drapes in those rooms are hung. I find when people start ripping pages of ideas out of magazines, the styles they are drawn to are fairly consistent.
Taking correct measurements will assure that you get the look that you want. Since I do all my own measuring for my clientel, I have developed my own measure sheets. This helps make sure I do not miss taking an important measurement. In my next blog I will go through the details of proper measurements and (if i can figure out how!) I will include a measure sheet.
The next thing you need to decide on is your fabric. Most interior designers do the draperies at the end of a large room project. I always refer to drapes as "the icing on the cake". The theory is that you work from the bottom up. Many rooms are designed off of a beautiful oriental rug. But more of us than not do not have the money to purchase an oriental let alone design a room around it! But I will assume you have furniture in place and wall colors chosen or wall paper hung. If these are decisions you have not made, start with that and leave the window design for the end of your project. There are hundreds of thousands of fabric choices for window treatments. So starting with wall color and furnishings is the best idea. Once you have settled on that you can start your fabric search with samples of your furniture fabrics and wallpaper swatches or paint chips in hand so you can find the fabric that works with everything. Remember - you want it all to compliment. The drapes should blend in nicely with the rest of the furnishings and not be the first or only thing you see as you walk into the room.
Once the fabric has been chosen the hardware will be your next project. Again, there are so many choices available and going back to those pictures you have in your file will help you determine what will work in your room. In future blogs I will discuss what is available and how it all works. Some people just want drapes that are called "side panels" and are there just for the design element and are not functional. Some of you will need a drapery that opens and closes. These are all the things you need to consider that will lead you to the proper hardware for your project.
As you can see, custom draperies give you much to think about! But trust me - there is a process and I will be as clear as I can be to help get you to the perfect look for your room. Check back soon --- Kristen
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)