Measuring correctly for your drapery project is very important. When I do a measure I take many measurements and then translate those into my finished width and finished length. The initial measuring is the simple part but translating those numbers into what the finished product should measure is a bit tricky. When done in steps it will make perfect sense to you. As you can see I have included the measuring chart I promised you in my first posting. If you cannot access it properly please e-mail me and I will send you the file so you can print it out.
Since I told you we were starting with drapes I will go through the proper way to measure the outside of your windows. Inside measurements are important when we start discussing roman shades or different types of shading systems - like wood blinds or pleated shades -- what we refer to in the industry as "hard goods". But for our first project we will deal with the outside measurements.
Make sure you use a good rigid tape measure. We seamstresses / seamsters are used to having a soft-tape for use in making clothing or quilts. But they are not helpful in this process. You want a good tape measure that can hook around the frame of your window so you can get an exact measurement. They are certainly not expensive tools and you will need it throughout the sewing process. You can find one at your local hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot store. I prefer a tape that is 3/4" to 1" wide and a strong steel. Some are softer and do not stand straight as you open them. Find a good quality tape measure - it will last you a long time and become a very important tool.
I always start with the width first and then the length. It is standard to the industry that width is listed first and length is second. I notate this because if you do decide to measure and order hard goods and you list your sizes incorrectly (and the person placing your order does not ask enough questions!) you will get a shade where the width is actually the length and the length is the width -- I have known this to happen!!
Measure from the outside frame to the outside frame width first - it is simple to hook the end of your tape around the frame to the left and pull out the tape and notate the measurement on the right. Take notations of the wall width beyond the frames on the right and left of the window. Are you close to a corner? If so, measure that space. Are there 2 windows close to each other? Measure the wall space between them. Is there a fireplace between the windows? Measure the space up to the fireplace. If there is a lot of wall space beyond the frames it is not necessary to measure it - I just note that there is plenty of space for stacking. All this is necessary when it comes time to translate these numbers into your finished width. This information will help to determine the proper proportion your drapery will need to fit with the size of your windows.
There are a few measurements you will need for the length: hook your tape to the top of the frame and take the length from the top of the frame to the sill - or if there is no sill, to the bottom of the opening. Leaving the tape hooked to the top of the frame, take the length from the top of the frame to the floor. Now measure from the top of the frame to the ceiling or crown moulding. This is an important measurement because it will help determine where you mount your hardware and what size / diameter hardware will work for that space. If you read my first blog you will know that I do not believe in mounting hardware on the window frame so this is a vital number to have!
You are now able to figure your finished width and come close to a finished length. The reason I say "close to" a finished length is because the actual finished length will be determined once you have chosen your hardware. But the difference is minimal and there will be enough information from your initial measuring that you can figure your drapery yardage and get the project started.
When figuring the width of stationary side panels the most I take the drape off the frame and onto the wall is about 6" on either side. People tend to assume that a drapery creates a much larger stack than they actually do. I also find that people are concerned about the drapery coming into the window and taking up too much light or view. But realistically you have to have the drapery cover the entire width of the frames on each side and come onto the glass a couple of inches or it will leave you with an odd look. I would say nine times out of ten the side panels I make require 1 1/2 widths per side and this gives you enough fullness for most windows -- up to about a 7' rod width -- and also gives you enough fullness to play with once you hang the drapery. You want the panels to "stack" when they are hung. What this means is that if you decide that you want them to take up 12" to 16" you do not actually pleat them to measure12" - 16". You want them pleated to measure about 2X that number so when you hang them, you push them to the side so they look really full and appear to be a drapery that actually opens and closes. This is the proper look.
For the length I will figure that they will be hung to the floor. I know there are situations where they may be short but I am not a fan of short drapes (unless they are a cafe curtain) and I will assume you are dealing with your living room, dining room or family room and should take the drapes to the floor - it is a much more finished look. Once you have taken your measurements you need to decide where you want your rod mounted and add that measurement above the window to the length from the top of the frame to the floor. You also need to decide how you want the panels to end at the floor. This is definitely a personal choice and it is difficult for me to say that one thing is better than another. It is a matter of personal taste and what will work for you in your life. Many designers I work with like the panels about 1/4" off the floor, many like what we call a slight "break" - which means the drapery is about 1/2" on the floor. Some ask for more of a break - perhaps 1" - 2" . Some want what is called a "puddle" - which is anywhere from 3" to 12". This is NOT a standard look these days but certainly proper for some situations. This is where your design books or file of magazine pictures will come in to play. You have to choose which works for you. The one thing I will say is if you decide you want the drapery to open and close you probably will not want them to break - they will be constantly dragging on the floor and will get dirty and dusty and never fall properly.
The formula for figuring drapes is the same whether you are doing simple stationary side panels or drapes that will draw open and closed. It is all easy math and I will write out the formula for you. Please make sure you are using a calculator.- another very important tool that you will need throughout the process. I do this everyday of my life and have learned the hard way not to trust the quick figuring in my head. It is too easy to make a mistake and when you are figuring the number of yards of fabric required, that can be a costly mistake.
We will start with a standard pinch-pleated drapery. There are many pleat options that we will go into in later blogs but they should all start with the same fullness. The fullness for a pinch-pleated drape is 2.5X. This fullness will give you the proper amount of fabric in your pleat which is what makes the drapery look full and fall into nice folds from the top of the pleat to the floor. If you have less fullness the pleats tend to look skimpy and the fold will not hold it's shape to the floor - the fabric will start to flatten out as it gets closer to the bottom.
Another important issue is to purchase drapery fabric and not a clothing, quilting or upholstery weight fabric. The right weight of fabric makes a very big difference in the final look of your drapery. You can work the formula regardless of whether you have chosen your fabric or not. However, the width of the fabric and whether it is a solid or a print may change the amount required. I will start with the formula for figuring a solid fabric - and then we can discuss working with a print which requires another layer of math because you are now dealing with a fabric repeat.
(In order not to confuse anyone - some of you will already understand this but I want to be as clear as I can be so there will be no question about what I mean - I want to explain my use of the term "width" This is a standard industry term and it simply means a cut of fabric. I will use the term width in place of cut and I want you to be clear about what I am saying. Since drapes require fullness you will sew cuts of your fabric together to create the finished width you want, and that is why I say 1 1/2 widths of fabric which simply means cuts.)
I am going to figure my example as if we are making a pair of pinch pleated drapes that are going to open and close. This is a better way to learn the figuring process. My example is for a window that is 60" wide and I want to take the drapery out 6" on each side. This gives me a rod width of 72". My frame to floor measurement is 86" and I have 10" above my window frame. I will put my drape 5" above the frame. Since I want these to draw I will not add a break or a puddle.
To figure the finished length: 86" + 5" less 1/4" off the floor = 90 3/4" finished length.
So my finished measurement for this pair of drapes is:
To figure how many widths of fabric are required, this is the formula:
To figure how many cuts of fabric you will need:
Now that we know how many widths of fabric we need, we will figure our CUT length. This is so important because many times I have had people figure their fabric based on the finished length and then have nothing left to make their hems and tops with !!
We figured our finished length to be 90 3/4".
To this number we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4" for each width of fabric.
(I will go into the details of the hems and tops when I begin my lessons so please be patient and trust that adding the 13" to your finished length is safe -- and know that I actually add 15" to mine)
Since the 103 3/4" is close to 3 yards you can round up to 3 yards. If you round up to 3 yards:
Multiply 4 widths X 3 yard cuts and you get a yardage requirement of 12 yards.
If you prefer you can multiply 103 3/4" X 4 = 415" / divide the 415" by 36" (a yard) = 11.527777.
So you can see why we round up when the number is so close to 12 yards.
I will end this "part one" blog at this point to give you chance to process it and make sure you understand it. I appreciate any comments you have, especially if you are confused and need some clarification for any of this information. More detail will follow regarding figuring a print and I will also get back to talking about side panels. Remember - you can e-mail me with any questions and I will do my best to answer quickly and clearly. Good luck! I will be back soon. Kristen
Since I told you we were starting with drapes I will go through the proper way to measure the outside of your windows. Inside measurements are important when we start discussing roman shades or different types of shading systems - like wood blinds or pleated shades -- what we refer to in the industry as "hard goods". But for our first project we will deal with the outside measurements.
Make sure you use a good rigid tape measure. We seamstresses / seamsters are used to having a soft-tape for use in making clothing or quilts. But they are not helpful in this process. You want a good tape measure that can hook around the frame of your window so you can get an exact measurement. They are certainly not expensive tools and you will need it throughout the sewing process. You can find one at your local hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot store. I prefer a tape that is 3/4" to 1" wide and a strong steel. Some are softer and do not stand straight as you open them. Find a good quality tape measure - it will last you a long time and become a very important tool.
I always start with the width first and then the length. It is standard to the industry that width is listed first and length is second. I notate this because if you do decide to measure and order hard goods and you list your sizes incorrectly (and the person placing your order does not ask enough questions!) you will get a shade where the width is actually the length and the length is the width -- I have known this to happen!!
Measure from the outside frame to the outside frame width first - it is simple to hook the end of your tape around the frame to the left and pull out the tape and notate the measurement on the right. Take notations of the wall width beyond the frames on the right and left of the window. Are you close to a corner? If so, measure that space. Are there 2 windows close to each other? Measure the wall space between them. Is there a fireplace between the windows? Measure the space up to the fireplace. If there is a lot of wall space beyond the frames it is not necessary to measure it - I just note that there is plenty of space for stacking. All this is necessary when it comes time to translate these numbers into your finished width. This information will help to determine the proper proportion your drapery will need to fit with the size of your windows.
There are a few measurements you will need for the length: hook your tape to the top of the frame and take the length from the top of the frame to the sill - or if there is no sill, to the bottom of the opening. Leaving the tape hooked to the top of the frame, take the length from the top of the frame to the floor. Now measure from the top of the frame to the ceiling or crown moulding. This is an important measurement because it will help determine where you mount your hardware and what size / diameter hardware will work for that space. If you read my first blog you will know that I do not believe in mounting hardware on the window frame so this is a vital number to have!
You are now able to figure your finished width and come close to a finished length. The reason I say "close to" a finished length is because the actual finished length will be determined once you have chosen your hardware. But the difference is minimal and there will be enough information from your initial measuring that you can figure your drapery yardage and get the project started.
When figuring the width of stationary side panels the most I take the drape off the frame and onto the wall is about 6" on either side. People tend to assume that a drapery creates a much larger stack than they actually do. I also find that people are concerned about the drapery coming into the window and taking up too much light or view. But realistically you have to have the drapery cover the entire width of the frames on each side and come onto the glass a couple of inches or it will leave you with an odd look. I would say nine times out of ten the side panels I make require 1 1/2 widths per side and this gives you enough fullness for most windows -- up to about a 7' rod width -- and also gives you enough fullness to play with once you hang the drapery. You want the panels to "stack" when they are hung. What this means is that if you decide that you want them to take up 12" to 16" you do not actually pleat them to measure12" - 16". You want them pleated to measure about 2X that number so when you hang them, you push them to the side so they look really full and appear to be a drapery that actually opens and closes. This is the proper look.
For the length I will figure that they will be hung to the floor. I know there are situations where they may be short but I am not a fan of short drapes (unless they are a cafe curtain) and I will assume you are dealing with your living room, dining room or family room and should take the drapes to the floor - it is a much more finished look. Once you have taken your measurements you need to decide where you want your rod mounted and add that measurement above the window to the length from the top of the frame to the floor. You also need to decide how you want the panels to end at the floor. This is definitely a personal choice and it is difficult for me to say that one thing is better than another. It is a matter of personal taste and what will work for you in your life. Many designers I work with like the panels about 1/4" off the floor, many like what we call a slight "break" - which means the drapery is about 1/2" on the floor. Some ask for more of a break - perhaps 1" - 2" . Some want what is called a "puddle" - which is anywhere from 3" to 12". This is NOT a standard look these days but certainly proper for some situations. This is where your design books or file of magazine pictures will come in to play. You have to choose which works for you. The one thing I will say is if you decide you want the drapery to open and close you probably will not want them to break - they will be constantly dragging on the floor and will get dirty and dusty and never fall properly.
The formula for figuring drapes is the same whether you are doing simple stationary side panels or drapes that will draw open and closed. It is all easy math and I will write out the formula for you. Please make sure you are using a calculator.- another very important tool that you will need throughout the process. I do this everyday of my life and have learned the hard way not to trust the quick figuring in my head. It is too easy to make a mistake and when you are figuring the number of yards of fabric required, that can be a costly mistake.
We will start with a standard pinch-pleated drapery. There are many pleat options that we will go into in later blogs but they should all start with the same fullness. The fullness for a pinch-pleated drape is 2.5X. This fullness will give you the proper amount of fabric in your pleat which is what makes the drapery look full and fall into nice folds from the top of the pleat to the floor. If you have less fullness the pleats tend to look skimpy and the fold will not hold it's shape to the floor - the fabric will start to flatten out as it gets closer to the bottom.
Another important issue is to purchase drapery fabric and not a clothing, quilting or upholstery weight fabric. The right weight of fabric makes a very big difference in the final look of your drapery. You can work the formula regardless of whether you have chosen your fabric or not. However, the width of the fabric and whether it is a solid or a print may change the amount required. I will start with the formula for figuring a solid fabric - and then we can discuss working with a print which requires another layer of math because you are now dealing with a fabric repeat.
(In order not to confuse anyone - some of you will already understand this but I want to be as clear as I can be so there will be no question about what I mean - I want to explain my use of the term "width" This is a standard industry term and it simply means a cut of fabric. I will use the term width in place of cut and I want you to be clear about what I am saying. Since drapes require fullness you will sew cuts of your fabric together to create the finished width you want, and that is why I say 1 1/2 widths of fabric which simply means cuts.)
I am going to figure my example as if we are making a pair of pinch pleated drapes that are going to open and close. This is a better way to learn the figuring process. My example is for a window that is 60" wide and I want to take the drapery out 6" on each side. This gives me a rod width of 72". My frame to floor measurement is 86" and I have 10" above my window frame. I will put my drape 5" above the frame. Since I want these to draw I will not add a break or a puddle.
To figure the finished length: 86" + 5" less 1/4" off the floor = 90 3/4" finished length.
So my finished measurement for this pair of drapes is:
72" wide X 90 3/4" long
To figure how many widths of fabric are required, this is the formula:
72" rod width X 2.5 fullness = 180".
Most decorative home fabrics are 54" wide so I will use that width. (Again, you can make the proper adjustments to the formula once you have chosen your fabric).To figure how many cuts of fabric you will need:
Divide the 2.5 fullness = 180" by the width of your fabric - 54".
180" divided by 54" = 3.333333.
Well of course you are not going to use 3.3333 widths so you round it up to the next whole number which is 4. So to get the correct fullness for this drape you will need a total of 4 cuts of 54" wide fabric. Since it is a pair of drapes, you will need 2 widths per side.180" divided by 54" = 3.333333.
Now that we know how many widths of fabric we need, we will figure our CUT length. This is so important because many times I have had people figure their fabric based on the finished length and then have nothing left to make their hems and tops with !!
We figured our finished length to be 90 3/4".
To this number we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4" for each width of fabric.
(I will go into the details of the hems and tops when I begin my lessons so please be patient and trust that adding the 13" to your finished length is safe -- and know that I actually add 15" to mine)
Since the 103 3/4" is close to 3 yards you can round up to 3 yards. If you round up to 3 yards:
Multiply 4 widths X 3 yard cuts and you get a yardage requirement of 12 yards.
If you prefer you can multiply 103 3/4" X 4 = 415" / divide the 415" by 36" (a yard) = 11.527777.
So you can see why we round up when the number is so close to 12 yards.
I will end this "part one" blog at this point to give you chance to process it and make sure you understand it. I appreciate any comments you have, especially if you are confused and need some clarification for any of this information. More detail will follow regarding figuring a print and I will also get back to talking about side panels. Remember - you can e-mail me with any questions and I will do my best to answer quickly and clearly. Good luck! I will be back soon. Kristen
