Sunday, September 14, 2008

Figuring yardage for drapes - Part 3

My last post dealt with measuring your windows, translating that into your finished width and length, and then figuring the number of yards required using a solid fabric. Figuring for a print is a step more complicated but is simply another mathematical formula. If you go through the formula a few times I am sure it will begin to make sense to you.

When working with a solid fabric the important number you need is the width of the fabric. In working with a print you need to know both the width of the fabric, so you know how many widths are required for the correct fullness, and the vertical repeat, which ultimately will tell you how many yards per width are required.

The process of measuring and figuring your number of widths and the length of your cuts is the same. The additional formula comes into play once you know your finished length and have added your 13" - 15" for hems and tops. At this point, you will be working with the size of the repeat. If it is not listed anywhere, roll out the fabric and measure the repeat. A repeat is clear if you look at a good size piece of the fabric and the print - flowers or grids or whatever the design is - repeats in a vertical fashion. Find the top of the repeat and measure down to where that same spot comes into view again -- this is your repeat. This is an issue I am particular about because it is what separates a real custom look from a "made-it-myself" look. And it is worth the effort to have the project have a custom look.

There will be times when the repeat will give you a much larger cut than you would need if it is a solid and might create some waste. Just be aware that this can happen but it is just part of the equation. There really isn't any way around it. We have not gotten into any fabrication rules yet, but I want you to know that with drapes we work from the hem up - unlike clothing, the hem of a drapery is actually the first thing you do once you have sewn all your widths together. So any excess fabric you will have as a result of a larger cut because of a repeat will be dealt with when it comes time to finish the top of your drape. I wanted to be clear on this so you do not think you will have to cut your length again because of excess from the repeat before you start the sewing process. It will all be taken care of in what is referred to as the "tabling process".

I will use my original example that was in my 2nd post :
My example is for a window that is 60" wide and I want to take the drapery out 6" on each side. This gives me a rod width of 72". My frame to floor measurement is 86" and I have 10" above my window frame. I will put my drape 5" above the frame. Since I want these to draw I will not add a break or a puddle.
To figure the finished length: 86" + 5" less 1/4" off the floor = 90 3/4" finished length.

So my finished measurement for this pair of drapes is:
72" wide X 90 3/4" long


(Please refer to the last post for how we determined the number of widths)

To figure the CUT length for a repeat:
Our finished length for this pair of drapes is 90 3/4"
To the finished length, we add 8" for the hem and 5" for the top = 103 3/4"
This is where the next formula comes into play. Instead of multiplying this number by our number of widths we first have to divide it by the size of the repeat. We need to know how many repeats are required for this cut. I will figure it with 2 different numbers so it will be clear to you. Let's say this is a floral print and the repeat is 27". You will take the cut length of 103 3/4" and divide it by the size of the repeat, which is 27". 103 3/4" divided by 27" = 3.8425..... Just as we did with the number of widths, we are going to round up to the next whole number, which is 4. Now we take our repeat size again -- 27" -- and multiply that by the number of repeats -- 4.
SO -- 4 repeats X 27" per repeat = 108". This is the size each cut will need to be. This will allow you to sew your widths together and have the repeats match on the selvage edges. (There are great tricks to creating a perfect match which I will go into when I start my lessons). Now you are going to take your actual cut length - 108" -- and multiply that by the number of widths -- 4 -- then divide by 36" (a yard) to get your total yardage required. 108" X 4 = 432" divided by 36" = 12 yards total. Lets use the same formula with a 22 3/4" repeat so you can see what I mean by some waste.

Our cut length is 103 3/4" which we will divide by 22 3/4" (our second repeat) = 4.5604.....
We will round that number up to 5. ( I feel I need to make a notation here: even if the fraction after the whole number is quite small, say it is 4.156 - STILL round UP. The reason for this is because the fraction is part of the cut length and you will cut yourself short if you round down) . Now we know we will need 5 repeats for each cut for this pair of drapes. 5 (repeats) X 22 3/4" = 113 3/4". Take that 113 3/4" and multiply it by the 4 widths we need :
4 X 113 3/4" = 455" divided by 36" (a yard) = 12.63888. You can round this up to 12 3/4 yards or 13 yards to get the correct yardage. This cut length is 10" more per cut than we actually need BUT this is the only way to allow for the match and assure that the repeat lines up in all the widths of your drape. And if you have a few pairs of drapes you want to make sure they are all cut with the same repeat lines so as you look from panel to panel the repeat is consistent throughout. This is TRULY custom!!


My next posting will be about hardware and side panels. Then I hope to begin the actual fabrication lessons. I am working on the best ways to get the lessons across as clear and concise as possible. In the meantime I hope the information to this point has been helpful and getting you started with your drapery projects. DO not hesitate to contact me with any questions or concerns. Good luck! Kristen